Sunday, July 31, 2011

Qaqortoq, Greenland and Days at Sea

The day began very early for us and in a most unexpected and unwelcome way! At about 1:45 the emergency alarm went off throughout the ship. Ugh! Chuck got up to see what was going on, but I chose to stay in bed and wait for further information. Several people were poking their noses out of their staterooms, wondering the same thing. A few minutes later, the captain came over the PA: “Ladies and gentlemen, this is the captain speaking. A fire alarm has gone off and we have detected some smoke. We are checking to find the source of the smoke. At this time there is no need for guests to do anything. We will keep you informed.” So we waited, and about five minutes later, “Ladies and gentlemen, this is the captain speaking. We have discovered a small fire near a dishwasher in the pantry of the crow’s nest, and the crew is working to put it out. We will keep you informed.” Great! Six hours from Greenland, somewhere in the North Atlantic, and there’s a fire on the ship! A few minutes later, “Ladies and gentlemen, this is the captain speaking. The fire has been extinguished. Have a pleasant night.” (Yeah, right! Maybe we’ll be able to sleep, now that visions of lifeboats can be replaced by visions of sugarplums!) It certainly made us a little bleary-eyed when it was time to get up.

Despite the early morning emergency, we arrived at our next port right on schedule. Qaqortoq was a real surprise! We expected cold, damp weather, and we got marvelous sunshine and about 55°! Walking around in sweatshirts and jackets proved to be much warmer than we’d anticipated!

We arrived right on schedule, but since there were no shore excursions, we opted to have a good breakfast before tendering into town. Being 4-star mariners definitely has its perks – we were able to go in whenever we felt like going without having to get tickets and wait for a specific tender.

This area is very hilly, so everywhere we went we were walking either up- or downhill. The population of Qaqortoq is about 3500, and we are convinced that about ¼ of them are children under the age of 5! We must have encountered at least 40 children out for walks around town with adults. We assumed they must be day-care children, but we decided that they are definitely doing their part to increase the population of the village. We wondered if there were so many out because of the nice weather.

The houses are among the most colorful we’ve ever seen – bright reds, oranges, yellows, greens, blues, and even a few very vivid purple ones! There were boats everywhere, and we were amazed at all the clotheslines out and loaded with clothes. We must have encountered almost as many forklifts driving around town as we did cars and trucks!

We really enjoyed wandering around the community and greeting so many friendly people. We visited a couple of small but very picturesque churches, popped into a few stores just to see what they had to offer, and we decided that we really didn’t need to buy things like refrigerators or washers and dryers! We also checked out what appeared to be an outdoor fish and meat market. As we’d expected, the meat was reindeer meat. No, thanks. Not interested in having Dasher or Dancer for dinner! They don’t have many tourists, so the only places we were able to find anything of interest to us was at the tourist information center.

Back on board the ship, we were able to get a few pictures of some medium-sized icebergs in the bay. We’re hoping to see more tomorrow, but the captain informed us that about 65% of the ships aren’t able to navigate through the Prince Christian Sund (Sound). They send out helicopters to make sure that it’s safe for a ship to venture in. After all, we do want to be able to venture back out again, and the helicopters make sure a ship isn’t ice-locked once it enters the sound.

We were up early to view all the icebergs surrounding the ship. We were making our way very slowly through the waters off the coast of Greenland because of all the ice. When the helicopter checked the water in Prince Christian Sound, they found it to be ice-locked, so we were unable to enter the sound. Despite that, we had beautiful views of the icy waters and unique and colorful ice formations. When seeing these ice floes, you are really able to see for yourself just how much ice appears below the surface of the water.

In addition to the ice, we saw numerous seals relaxing on the sheets of ice. As the ship approached, some seals held their ground, but most escaped into the icy waters and swam away. Some floes had a single seal, but we spotted some floes with as many as half a dozen seals sunning themselves. I’m sure glad that I don’t have to spend my life slithering around on ice in these frigid waters!

Sunday found us enjoying another sea day. The ship has really picked up speed and the seas are rocky, so I really started feeling the motion of the ocean! Fortunately some Coke and a Bonine did the trick, and I was able to go on with the day’s activities as planned. These included another excellent port lecture by Barbara about Invergordon/Inverness and Edinburgh. Despite having been there many times, we were interested in hearing her take on these locations. From there it was on to the 4-star Mariner Brunch. We always enjoy that as well as picking up a Delft tile. (I really like this year’s design, which incorporates King Neptune into it.) It was way too cold and windy to walk outside, so I opted to do a lap around each of the eight decks that are available to passengers. Then it was on to a lecture about pirates.

We are looking forward to our arrival in Reykjavik tomorrow.

Barb

Thursday, July 28, 2011

At Sea between Canada & Greenland

As we headed north from Newfoundland to Greenland through the chilly North Atlantic, we had two days at sea. Wednesday morning found us up early as our captain told us we might be able to see icebergs but fog was predicted to roll in mid-morning and remain for the next two days. After looking out the window at 6, all we saw was blue sky and sea but by 7, there were a few smaller icebergs beginning to pass by. So it was out on deck to see what we could. However, the biggest iceberg of the morning was the one we observed from our stateroom earlier; we later found that the captain had diverted out of his way so we could see them.

On sea days, we typically have breakfast in the main dining room and are randomly seated at tables for four. On each day we have met interesting people and today was no exception. We met a couple from near Vancouver. Otto was born in Holland and Ida in the Philippines. We told them that they were the third couple in a row where each spouse was born in different countries and had settled in Canada. They were a wealth of knowledge about world travel, offering several excellent suggestions. We find we are such rookies when it comes to travel!

We had hoped to attend Cruise Director Bruce’s “Good Morning Maasdam”, a takeoff on morning TV’s interview shows, but once again time got in the way. We wanted to hear Travel Guide, Barbara Haenni’s, informative presentation on things to see and do in Reykavik, Iceland. Once again, virtually without notes, she gave historical information and lots of description of things to see in that far northern city. As she finished, we remained seated for the next speaker, Tim Runyan, a Professor at East Carolina University, speak on “What’s under the Ship” – mostly about the topography of the sea floor and various shipwrecks including the famous and the infamous Titanic.

After lunch and laps around the deck, we attended an absolutely fascinating presentation on “What is Linguistics?”, by Ron Barasch, Professor of Linguistics at University of California at Irvine. Anyone with an interest in English language and other languages would enjoy what he had to say.

The predicted fog never materialized all day long and, as we moved farther north, it was still somewhat light after 10 PM – a further bonus to our trek north. However, the downside is the predicted high of 43 on Thursday. Predicted high for Chicago is 90!

As we pushed farther north on Thursday, temps continued to drop and the long-promised fog took over by early Thursday afternoon. Barbara Haenni delivered one of her wonderfully informative talks about what we can expect to see and do in the two smaller Icelandic ports we visit on our eastbound journey, Heimaey and Djupivogur. Dr. Ron Barasch spoke in the afternoon on the subject of Languages of the World.

There’s never a lack of things to do on the ship when we have days at sea. Tomorrow – Greenland!

Chuck

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Cap-aux-Meules, Quebec & Bonne Bay, Newfoundland

Our first port of call was Cap-aux-Meules, located in the Madeleine Archipelago of Quebec. After our short tender ride, we boarded local school buses to take the ride to La Grave, a small historic village located on a nearby island. The island, accessible by roads, extended along a very narrow peninsula of sandy beaches. The bus took us as far as it could go, and we could have walked to the end, if we’d wanted (or had time) to see where they hold the sand castle competitions. (You know – the ones we later see in picture on the Internet!)

Instead, we walked through the picturesque village. Most of the industry revolves around lobster fishing, but the season has just ended, so we were able to see piles of lobster traps. Also important is the tourist industry so the one main was lined with small shops. Outside one shop was a man beginning to build a sand castle. He spent some time explaining how to get the detail and how to make sure the castle didn’t easily fall apart. At least that’s what I’m assuming he was telling. I didn’t take time to listen, and the Quebecois French accent isn’t easy for me to pick up. I did enjoy watching the process, though.

On the way back to Cap-aux-Meules, our guide told pointed out the enormous wooden church, explaining that it was the second-largest in North America. There was quite a story behind the wood they used for the church, and it involved trying to get wood from Canada to England that kept getting shipwrecked on the island. After the third attempt to bring wood (and third shipwreck), they gave up, blessed the wood, and built the church.

It was a short and easy excursion, but we enjoyed it. When someone asked our tour guide how long she’d been giving tours, she told us that we were her very first tour! She did a great job for being brand new! Not only that, but we were the first cruise ship of the season to visit Cap-aux-Meules; they only get about two ships a year visiting their area so we felt we were fortunate to be able to visit.
As mentioned earlier, we had used school buses for our tour. Later we learned that the children were given a day off from school (in late July!!!) so that the buses could be used for the tours the community provided. Obviously the arrival of a ship is a really big deal to everyone here!

At lunch, we heard a real horror story! Someone at the table next to us commented that there were people on the tender who were arriving with their luggage. They had flown from Arkansas, through Chicago, to Boston, and because of the storm in Chicago, they arrived in Boston late, just a half hour after the ship had sailed. So they had to manage to get themselves to the tiny island of Cap-aux-Meules. The tour guide had told us that there was something like one flight in and out a day! We considered ourselves very fortunate to have gotten out before the storm created more havoc!
Tuesday found us arriving in Woody Point, at the edge of Bonne Bay, Newfoundland. It’s a pretty little village that’s considered the gateway to Gros Morne National Park. Our arrival was heralded by mummers dancing in the streets, accompanied by Santa Claus! At this port we opted for a scenic cruise of the bay. Our cruise took us along the shores of rugged countryside with Gros Morne as a highlight in the distance. One set of jagged rocks was nicknamed Tenerife by Captain James Cook when he visited the area in the 1700s. (He certainly did get around – he was highlighted on our South Pacific cruise in 2009, and now here he is again, in Canada in 2011!)

Across the bay the terrain was less populated – by humans, at least! We managed to spot a few bald eagles. While not nearly as prevalent as they are in Alaska, they are a common sight here in Newfoundland. Our guide said that they usually appear in pairs. Later, as we turned into a smaller arm of the bay, we had a wonderful view of a waterfall, which the guide claimed they were trying to tout as competition to Niagara Falls. He told us that there was someone scheduled to go over the falls in a barrel this afternoon. We got a chuckle when we saw the gentle falls – no more than 10 feet high! They certainly have a sense of humor. As we watched the many kayakers in the water, we were startled by a minke whale. I’m sure glad I wasn’t in one of those kayaks, though it didn’t seem to bother them – or the whale! Apparently minkes are loners and don’t surface for very long or in a very dramatic fashion. We got a few glimpses of backs and a small dorsal fin, but that was it before he did a deep dive and went on his way. On our way again after our whale siting, we saw a very impressive geological formation – many strata of rock nearly perpendicular with the water – an old sea bed pushed to the surface after millions of years. The cruise certainly afforded a variety of interesting sights!

Back in the village, we wandered the main street. The people were very friendly and thrilled to have a ship come in. We heard that this was the first decent weather they’d had. The last time the Maasdam was here (two years ago), it was pouring rain, so the community was very pleased to put their best foot forward, both as hospitable people, but also with very hospitable weather – sunny and about 70°! We also had a warm greeting from a Royal Canadian Mounted Police, as well as Chap, the chocolate Labrador retriever. (The province is Newfoundland & Labrador, and we were told we’d be greeted by a dog, but we thought it would be a Newfoundland!)

We took a short walk to a quaint little lighthouse overlooking the bay and were afforded a beautiful scenic view of the bay, the town, and the ship.

It’s been a long time since I’ve been in Newfoundland, and I have to admit that the lsat time wasn’t the most thrilling! We made a fuel stop in Gander when I was flying home from my semester in France back in 1970! I remember getting out at the airport and not seeing much at all other than the airport itself. This visit was much more pleasant!

Barb

Setting Out on the Voyage of the Vikings

A year and a half after booking our cruise, on Friday morning, July 22, we were up early for our trip to O’Hare Airport to make our flight to Boston for the start of the “Voyage of the Vikings.” We had had very little rain in about a month, but this morning, of course, “scattered thunderstorms” were predicted for the Chicago area. It was our hope that we might get out before any possible storms might hit and we kept watching the western skies as we rode to the airport.

Our check-in was routine and we passed through security with little problem. About an hour before departure, Barb went to buy something to take on board for lunch and when she returned, I did the same. I was in no rush as I figured we wouldn’t board for another half hour. As I returned, Barb was standing, motioning for me to hurry as they had already passed our group boarding. As we gave our boarding passes, Barb was motioned out of line to try to fit her carry on into the tiny carry on sizer. Naturally it didn’t fit. It wasn’t any larger than what I was carrying but hers was more in the shape of a duffle. When it didn’t fit, they made her put hers in the plane’s hold. It was the first time it had ever happened and so totally unexpected that she had to send it off, unlocked with medications and travel documents as well as a few other items that would have been a disaster to lose. I, with about the same size carry on, was waved through to my seat. Go figure!

We were boarded early and told that the fight was full and we were going to try to take off early so we could beat the storm front that was headed for Chicago. We were away from the gate before the original departure time and were taxing out toward the runway when the sheets of rain hit. Thunder and lightning began and the captain came on to say there was no way we could take off in this! Those who had wished for rain had their prayers answered as we sat wondering if we would make it to Boston or not. Not only were we wanting to get to Boston to be sure to board the cruise (the thought of a cancelled flight, rebooking, getting to Boston in an alternative manner, and the outside concern of missing the Saturday afternoon departure of the cruise somehow), but friends we had met on our South Pacific, Australia and New Zealand cruise, Tony and Jude Zeoli, were going to spend some time with us in Boston. Since they were busy in the evening, it was only going to be practical to see them if the plane was approximately on time.

After a few updates from the captain, we were told that the weather had lifted sufficiently to take off. However that cost us an hour and a half and we arrived in Boston about 2:30 PM rather than the scheduled arrival of 12:55 PM – too late to make our connection with Tony and Jude a possibility.

So we took the shuttle to our hotel just as rush hour was beginning. I should add that the temp In Boston was 103 on Friday (following 99 and 98 in Chicago on Wednesday and Thursday. We got checked in with no problem and found a Chinese restaurant within a short walk on a hot, humid day and ate there. It looked great from the outside, service and décor were excellent, but the food quality left much to be desired. Oh well.

Saturday morning we had time to kill so had a leisurely breakfast, got everything packed up and got our luggage to the lobby for a scheduled shuttle departure at noon. We got a break since we were among the earliest with our luggage ready so actually were on our way on the shuttle before 11:30 as they knew the luggage wouldn’t all fit for the people booked on the shuttle. We got to Black Falcon Pier and had our larger luggage whisked away to be delivered to our room. We processed very quickly through the boarding procedures and were on board early enough to have the Mariner’s Brunch at the Rotterdam Dining Room. We were behind a group of 8 who had met each other on previous cruises and they were busy exchanging greetings. When we were to be seated, in order for the eight of them to sit together, they needed a table for 10 and invited Barb and me to join them. We did and they were kind enough to include us in their conversation. Of course they wanted to know where we were from and that naturally elicited the comments about Illinois politics! Our response was our typical “don’t blame us, we tried to warn” response so we were forgiven.

The rest of the afternoon was spent unpacking and getting organized. There was a quick overview of the cruise and we were thrilled to learn that Bruce Scudder was the Cruise Director and Barbara Haenni was the Travel Guide. Both were on our 2009 Grand Voyage and are the premier Holland America people in those positions and masters of their jobs.

At dinner we connected first with Deris Aprianto, our table steward that we had first met on our Norwegian fjords cruise in 2007 with our cousins. We had seen him on two additional cruises and Barb in particular had become Facebook friends with him. She had told him we had future cruise plans and he wondered if we were willing to request him as steward as he liked our ship the Maasdam, and HAL tried, when possible to honor requests of those who cruised frequently with them. Of course we were happy to ask for him. We were joined at our table with Sally and Ange DiTomaso of Florida who were traveling with their friend, Marge Buschhoff, also of Florida who we met for the first time.

After dinner, we went to our rooms to try to organize and unpack. That’s when Barb determined that the battery for her computer, that she remembered packing was completely missing. She put it in her luggage, remembered exactly where she put it, but it was gone. Completely gone. A big bulky item like that had disappeared. What a waste to have brought an unusable computer. We searched everywhere, but when I opened the drawer where I had stored my camera equipment, there it was! Whew. In hauling “stuff” out of suitcases and getting things put away, it wound up in my drawer. Crisis averted.

The evening entertainment was at 9:30 and we knew clocks were to be set ahead so we would lose an hour of sleep, so we got ready for bed and I was out like a light.

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and met a couple of French Canadian women from Montreal at breakfast. They spoke good English and Barb practiced some French on them. We wanted to hear the future cruise consultant talk about upcoming voyages for 2012 and 2013; then it was off to a Cruise Critic “Meet and Greet” where we could finally meet people with whom we had had contact before the cruise. At 11 AM, we heard Travel Consultant Barbara and her vast store of knowledge about Greenland.

By the end of the presentation it was time for lunch and then a lecture on the historical role of the Vikings in the North Atlantic. Did anyone say they would be bored on sea days? If so, it’s their own fault!

Chuck