Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Peru 2008


In June 2008, we traveled to Peru with a group of teachers and friends from the local Lincoln-Way schools. Having traveled with them on cruises to Alaska in 2004 and the Baltic in 2006, we quickly decided to join this group in our first venture to South America. We would not have decided to go there on our own, but with this group it was a good opportunity to see the beauty of the Andes Mountains, the mystery of Machu Picchu as well as the Amazon rainforest.

On the first morning we were given a tour of Lima, a very poor, and for the most part, a not very attractive city, by our excellent Peruvian guide, Marco. First we visited the Main Square of Lima and seeing several churches, including the burial spot of St. Rose of Lima, and some government buildings. What took our eye in the Main Square were the tanks sitting right out in front of one of the buildings. We were told that those were there in case they were needed for water cannons in an effort to break up unruly demonstrators. Our next stop was at a nearby Pachacamac ruins, an Inca site. After climbing a gentle slope, we had to go down the steps. But on the way down, Barb lost her balance on one of the steep steps and fell but fortunately had sat down rather than falling forward. It was a sprained ankle and she was told to keep the leg elevated and to stay off her feet for at least a couple days, and to keep it iced. Barb announced it was impossible to keep it elevated for two days as we were were flying to Cuzco the next day and she was NOT going to miss Machu Picchu in two days.

O n June 20, we headed for the airport for our short flight to Cuzco. Cuzco is a beautiful city in the high Andes at an altitude of about 12,000 feet. They offer free oxygen at the airport and several availed themselves of this opportunity. After checking into our hotel, we walked through the nearby Main Square to our restaurant. Since we were there at the time of a major Inca holiday corresponding to their winter solstice, there were people in their festive holiday outfits in the main square so it was fun observing this as we went to our restaurant. While there, one of the young teachers fainted from the altitude, but she recovered quickly. A man in his 50s felt lightheaded, so was able to get to a sofa and recline on that. We had been told that it was impossible to determine who would be affected by the altitude and that it had nothing to do with age, gender, or physical fitness.

On June 21, we headed for Machu Picchu, first by bus and then the last part of the trip to Machu Picchu by train. On arrival at the Machu Picchu site, we were inspired by the beauty of the ruins. Way up in the Andes, we tried to imagine how a community with such complex architecture could be built under such primitive conditions. Barb got to see Machu Picchu but didn't risk the walking on uneven surfaces and similar climbing as there had been the day she sprained her ankle. Most of us took most of the tour. We had a group picture taken at a site where the solstice is celebrated. We left Machu Picchu happy that we had had the opportunity to visit one of the great wonders of the world.

The next day, we were up early for our trip to the Sacred Valley and to stop at the market town of Pisac. We enjoyed the market and the bargaining for the best deals. We returned to the town of Ollantaytambo where we had gotten the train the previous day. Not as famous as Machu Picchu, but the Inca ruins of Ollantay fortress there were also very impressive. On the return back to the hotel, we saw people in their colorful native dress, one place in particular where the family pig was tied to a leash at the front of the house, and at one point, I saw a farmer walking two cows through the small town square.

The next morning we were off to the airport again for our trip to the jungle, arriving at Puerto Maldanado, the hub of the rainforest "civilization". It's a very poor village with people riding bicycles and motor bikes. We visited the market and got our suitcases stashed away in a secure building since we were only allowed to pack essentials in our carryon case. We went down to the Madre de Dios River which is a tributary of the Amazon. We boarded our motorized boat for the two hour boat ride to our rainforest site at Eco Amazonia. We arrived there, climbed the steep, uneven stairs, and were assigned our individual bungalows. It was quite rustic! It was one room with two twin beds, but behind was a room with a pair of hammocks. In between was the bathroom which had water, but no hot water! Showers were very quick! There was a single 60 W bulb in the ceiling to provide light for the entire cabin. There were generators that gave some light early in the morning and for a few hours in the evening. But, ready or not, lights were out at 10 PM! The porches were screened in but it became very still at night as it was pitch dark.

Late in the afternoon, we traveled to Monkey Island and enjoyed seeing the monkeys swinging from the trees and a few climbed on some of our hikers. They were safe but we were warned not to try to touch them and to let the monkeys decide if they wanted to climb on a person and not to try to force the money off them. After dinner, we boarded a motorboat to search for caimans. Later in the evening, armed with flashlights, we took a walk into the jungle to experience the sounds of the jungle at night.

The next morning some of us took a jungle walk, checking the foliage and thick brush, seeing the Lake Apu Victor and observing it from a watchtower and riding a small boat on the lake. Although we were in the jungle near the equator, it was still rather cool. We were told that the temps had set a record low when we were there -- somewhere in the mid to upper 60s.

The last day was a long one, with an early morning boat ride back from Eco Amazonia to Puerto Maldonado and their airport for the plane trip back to Lima via Cuzco. In Lima, we toured the archaeological museum, had dinner, and back Lima Airport for the trip home via Miami.

The trip was excellent and we had lots of new enriching experiences with excellent travel companions.

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