We were very pleased to be able to make the port of Nanortalik, Greenland, after having heard that there was so much ice in the harbor a few days ago that they feared the ship would be unable to navigate through the ice field. Apparently the ice cleared enough. Maybe they heard the threats that travel guide made that all the guests would appear on the bow with their blow dryers in order to sufficiently melt it for us to get to this port of call. We had been looking forward to this port since hearing that Chuck’s high school friend Merlin had spent time in Nanortalik doing research back in the 1970s. So we were very happy that the ice chose to drift elsewhere, at least for the day we were in port!
Nanortalik, which means “place of the polar bear”, is the southernmost settlement in Greenland. We didn’t have any concerns about greeting polar bears, though, because we were told that sightings are very few and far between. Although these animals are beautiful and majestic, they are also swift-moving killing machines, so we’ll be content with knowing that they do come here on rare occasions. The original settlers were Inuits, and the first Europeans arrived in about the year 1000 when Eric the Red was banished from Iceland and sailed westward. Today about 2500 people live in Nanortalik, and most are of Inuit descent. Local economy is based upon fishing and hunting, but as in our case, it can come to a standstill if ice blocks the harbor!
A chilly 41°, it certainly didn’t feel like summer as we bundled up to head ashore! But we’re so grateful that we’re able to visit this picturesque little village that we just layered up for February weather and headed ashore. Rugged mountains surround the village, and icebergs dot the harbor, creating a beautiful panorama. In our lecture on Greenland the other day, we learned that there are so few settlements in Greenland that the only ways to get from one to the other (other than by foot or dogsled or something) are sailing or flying. After walking the roads of Nanortalik, we are convinced that there’s no other way to get other places. With such a small population, I would think that everyone must know everyone else! At home we are so used to hopping in the car and going somewhere else that it’s difficult to imagine being in this little town with no place to go.
As soon as we arrived in the village, we purchased tickets for a couple of local performances. With no shore excursions available, we were glad that the townspeople provided entertainment for us. Our first stop was the cultural center, where we were served coffee or tea and cake and enjoyed a half hour of folk dancing. There were about 20 children who appeared to be of Inuit descent ranging in age from about 10 to late teens, and their energy and enthusiasm were infectious! They seemed to enjoy performing for us, and they did an excellent job! We really got a kick out of watching their movements. Having been in a dance group, the boys’ steps reminded me very much of clogging. The girls did sort of a shuffle while the boys did a kind of clogging step. The oldest girl was wearing the traditional dress of Greenland, and I couldn’t help but wonder if part of it wasn’t sealskin!
From the cultural center, we walked to the church where a choir performed for us. As we waited, we suddenly realized that there was quite a commotion a few rows ahead of us. Suddenly the person running the event called something out in Danish (I assume, since Greenland was under Danish rule until the late 1970s), and then said, “Is there a medical person here?” A couple of people got up, got the man laid out in a pew and then asked if anyone had any sugar. We assume from that request that the person must have been a diabetic. A few minutes later, he was helped out (looking absolutely white), and we were told he was taken to the hospital. I’m sure they have good facilities, there, but I certainly wouldn’t want to experience the Nanortalik Hospital first-hand! (We assume from the captain’s comment when we left port that he did get back on board, thank goodness!)
The vocal concert was very nice. I really enjoyed it, but all the music was very, very slow! I prefer peppy songs interspersed. That said, they did an excellent job, and it was fun to hear them sing in what must have been an Inuit language. They ended with Amazing Grace and asked if we’d like to sing along. Those who chose to participate hummed rather than sing so we weren’t in competition with their words.
After the concert we walked along the main road until we could go no further and then opted to go up a trail across some rocks. The huge boulders looked like a giant had taken them and strewn them across the landscape. Despite all the rocks and boulders, wild flowers flourished, particularly buttercups and what looked like bluebells. We picked up the same road we’d been on and continued farther, walking past small houses and enjoying the magnificent scenery as well as the simple but colorful architecture of the buildings. We chuckled at the sight of a trampoline sitting in the side yard of one of the tiny houses, and farther down, someone’s wash was hanging out. It seemed like an awfully cold climate for either of those, but they are used to it because we saw several people in light-weight jackets. Eventually we turned around and retraced our steps since we were unsure as to whether the road would circle back into town or just end somewhere. It appeared that the entire town only had one or two roads.
After browsing through the one small shop in town, I opted to go back to the ship while Chuck headed in the opposite direction. He came upon a picturesque little cemetery that overlooked the harbor. Row upon row of small white crosses were there and most graves were decorated with colorful flowers. At the water, there was one large white cross that dominated the rest and was closest to the unspoiled beauty of the harbor. We heard one lady say that when she dies she’d like to be brought to Nanortalik and be buried there, looking out toward the sea. As he walked he saw lots of children out, some walking on the street, others jumping on their trampoline and having a great time. Trampolines seem to be quite popular in Nanortalik! Several adults were out too, carrying out their daily routines. What surprised him was that in addition to the small, colorfully painted houses, there were also several wooden apartment buildings, something one wouldn’t have expected in such a remote place.
While we agreed that we wouldn’t want to live there, we thoroughly enjoyed our second port in Greenland. It’s a very rugged country with a small population for its size, but the people are friendly and charming, and we’re glad to add it to our growing list of countries visited.
Barb
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