Friday, March 16, 2012

Vietnam - Then and Now: Phu My (Ho Chi Minh City)

While we have found the Vietnam ports to be very interesting, the past couple days have been full of places and events that were significant in US history, not to mention our own personal history.  Having lost a couple of classmates, and having known others who served in Vietnam, these ports have been difficult as they brought back many memories of highly emotional times and events. 

As we sailed toward Phu My, we were struck by the difference between the two banks of the river.  On the port side we could see miles and miles of mangroves with openings that showed houses hidden back in the mangroves.  The river was dotted with fishing boats out for an early catch.  The starboard side was lined with derricks and cranes and industry.  What an incredible contrast!

Our tour, The Best of Ho Chi Minh City, was a full-day excursion from the relatively new port city of Phu My to Ho Chi Minh City.  While the official name of the former capital of South Vietnam is Ho Chi Minh City, the name is only used for official purposes.  Otherwise it is still referred to by its former name of Saigon, the name preferred by the locals.  Since it would take about two hours to get there due to extremely heavy traffic, we settled back to enjoy the scenery and listen to the running commentary by our tour guide, Thien. 

In two days we’ve heard three quotes on the population of Vietnam, so the number of 90 million is somewhat of a question mark in our minds.  The country is roughly the area of New Mexico, though of course it is very long and narrow, which is hard to visualize considering the difference in physical shape.  The government is Communist, but the southern part (below the 17th parallel or the DMZ) is allowed much more freedom than the northern part.  Here people can own their own property and can make their own decisions.  Up North, the government makes the decisions for the citizens.  Throughout the country, there appears to be much poverty as the only ones who are considered rich are those who work for the government.  Citizens here must pay for their own education and their own health care, as well prepare for their own retirement so they must work in some capacity to provide for those needs.  Many people own small shops.  Their living quarters are behind and above the shops, meaning that they eat, sleep, and work under the same roof.  It’s difficult to imagine a life in such a limited environment, especially with the trash that seemed to pervade the entire area.    

As we headed toward Saigon, we saw that there were almost no cars.  Everyone got around by truck, bus, or motorcycle.  Helmets are required, and most people wear masks and long pants as well as long sleeves and gloves – even in the heat!  It’s amazing to think that at home some people do everything they can to get a tan while people in Vietnam try to keep their skin as white as possible.  White skin in Vietnam signifies wealth so they cover up as much as they can to keep from getting too much sun. 

The traffic as we approached Saigon got more and more congested, and we were very glad that we were passengers rather than the bus driver!  I have never seen so many motorcycles in one spot in my life!  These cycles seemed to come from every direction and weave in and out in the traffic, causing many gasps among the bus passengers as we watched.  Not only that, but I’ve never seen so many unusual items being transported on those motorcycles.  In a few cases, there were two adults and a child on a motorcycle!  The assortment of items that they carried was amazing!  In one case a passenger was carrying a ladder and some kind of huge square box.  Another appeared to have about eight huge bags of concrete.  Friends of ours even saw one that had a full-size refrigerator strapped to the back of the cycle! 

Another thing that struck us was the tangles of wires we saw everywhere we looked in the city!  In one case I even saw a birdcage hanging from one of the wire tangles, and in another instance, there was a man on a ladder that was propped up against the wires – right in the middle of a street at an intersection! 

Our first stop took us to the Reunification Hall.  This was originally the Presidential Palace under the South Vietnamese regime.  It was here that the jeeps arrived to take over the government when South Vietnam fell in 1975.  This was our first experience of being in a place that was openly controlled by a Communist government, and it certainly felt strange!  We really weren’t sure how to react as the tour guide gave us some of the history – a history that brought back difficult memories for many Americans.
We also visited the Post Office, where we were able to see where the helicopters landed to take the South Vietnamese government leaders to safety. 

We also stopped at a lacquer ware workshop, where we learned about this beautiful artwork.  After a delicious buffet lunch at a very upscale hotel, we made one last stop at the National History Museum, where we learned about the history of Vietnam dating back as far as the Stone Age.  During our visit we enjoyed seeing a water puppet show – something very unique!  The puppets are steered through the water on long sticks by performers who are hidden behind a backdrop.  It was different from anything we’d ever seen before, and everyone in the group found it very entertaining. 

During our return trip to Phu My, the guide talked a little bit about the Vietnam War.  It was a totally different perspective from any others we’ve heard.  His father who I took to be about my age, and who had grown up working in farming, was expected to enlist in the army.  Because of his small stature, he found it very difficult to use the weapons he was given.  While he fought for the South, he really wanted to see a unified Vietnam.  Apparently this was the sentiment of many people. 

Because of the number of people who had full-day tours planned for Saigon, sail-away was not scheduled until 11:00 PM.  That meant there was time for a Vietnam Cultural Show.  While it had been a very long day, we didn’t want to miss the later-than-usual entertainment.  We were delighted that we did because the group who performed was excellent!  Many of the musical instruments were very unique, including one that looked almost like a small pagoda (Chuck said pyramid, and Al said birdcage) but in actuality was a xylophone-type instrument.  There were also six very elegant and graceful dancers whose grace and elegance was something to behold.  Each number exhibited different dresses and different accessories.  In one they used small china cups (egg cups?) as castanets, as well as head pieces that held lit candles.  In another there was an elegant use of fans, and in another they used conical hats to portray waves – whether of water or of rice in paddies, we weren’t sure.  We were certainly glad that we’d stayed up to attend this wonderful performance!

We are very pleased to have had the experience of visiting Vietnam, but we are sure that our next port, Singapore, will be quite a contrast!     

BT

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