Sunday, February 5, 2012

Ushuaia, Argentina: The End of the World


After leaving Antarctica on the 1st of February, we were told that we could expect to encounter very rough seas.  The captain had looked at the charts and the storm along the coast of South America was absolutely unavoidable.  So while he raced to get the ship as far on the way as possible before the storm hit, we began to pack things away and batten down the proverbial hatches.  Our room has never looked so picked up, with anything of concern stashed into drawers, suitcases, cabinets, or anywhere that would prevent it from crashing to the floor. 

Sleeping that night was interesting!  One might envision a baby’s cradle high up in a tree on a very windy day as we rolled from side to side and pitched up and down.  As we staggered toward the dining room in the morning (think fun house with those crazily slanted floors), I announced that I refused to take the stairs. Riding back up in the elevator with us after breakfast was an officer who said he told his “boys” never to take the stairs in weather like this, even if only going up or down one level.  I felt vindicated considering his ship experience! 

Because of the weather conditions and the notoriety of Cape Horn, we had to be satisfied to know that we are passing about 25 miles away as the planned scenic cruising isn’t possible.  Passengers received a certificate for having sailed in Cape Horn waters.  Cape Horn is not named (as I had originally thought) because the cape was shaped like a horn, but for the city of Hoorn in the Netherlands.  The certificate says, “…the waters around the Cape are particularly hazardous, owing to strong winds, large waves, strong currents and icebergs; these dangers have made it notorious as a sailor’s graveyard…”  I guess you could say we are having the privilege of experiencing the “best” (?) of Cape Horn first-hand!  This is truly a sailing adventure.  So we’re tucking in and enjoying it despite the rocky seas!  Besides, if you’re reading this, it means that these waters have not become our graveyard and that we’ve had the privilege of experiencing the Cape in its true form!   

Capt. Mercer kept everyone very well informed as we progressed through the rough waters.  Because of the precautions taken, the trip wasn’t nearly as bad as we’d expected, and as promised, the seas calmed and the winds died and we had smooth sailing after 4:00 PM when we entered the Beagle Channel south of Ushuaia.   The ship had gone the full speed ahead to get as much sea behind us as possible so that put us into Ushuaia earlier than we’d anticipated.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world.  Although a Chilean town claims to be farther south, the population is such that it can’t be considered a city, which means that Ushuaia, boasting a population of 50,000 inhabitants, can claim that title.  Everywhere we looked, we saw signs that claimed that Ushuaia was the “end of the world”. 

Ushuaia, the capital of the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego, is located in the well-known region of Patagonia which covers both Argentina and Chile.  The region gets its name from Magellan’s claim that the people who lived there had very big feet.  Because it is the closest city to the Antarctic Peninsula, Ushuaia is considered the “Gateway to Antarctica”.  Indeed, we saw evidence of ships that were most likely being readied for a trip to the white continent.  With its sub polar climate, the weather is quite variable in Ushuaia so we were very happy to have sunny weather for the vast majority of our day there!

Our shore excursion, Drive to Tierra del Fuego National Park, took us through Ushuaia to the nearby park.  The scenic drive afforded lovely views of the beginning (or ending, depending upon one’s perspective) of the Andes Mountain range.  We passed by the southernmost golf course in the world with a backdrop of U-shaped valleys carved by glaciers.  Those who chose to play a round received a certificate for golfing at the links of Ushuaia. 

Some of the wildlife in the national park was quite visible, while others may not have made physical appearances but had left evidence of their presence.  Although we saw no beavers (which are not indigenous so have no natural enemies), we passed areas where trees had been felled as if a forest fire had taken them down, but it was the beavers who had done the damage.  We passed lake after lake and river after river that contained beaver dams or lodges.  Also introduced to the Patagonian area were the rabbits which were so proliferate that it wasn’t uncommon to see four or five sitting on lawns or bounding across landscapes.  Many trees “boasted” huge holes in their trunks, the result of the native Great Patagonian (or Magellanic) Woodpecker, which can be as large as 18 inches.  These birds, unlike the beavers, are indigenous animals.  Black-necked swans dotted the lake, gracefully swimming in the shadows of snow-capped mountains.  Upland geese, which are monogamous and mourn with the death of their mate, could be spotted near the lakeshores, as well as a pintail duck that was sitting atop a beaver dam.  We even spotted a red fox that was more the size of a large coyote.  Overall, we were fascinated by the animals that we saw!

One of our stops was at the terminus of the Pan American Highway, which begins in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, some 17,848 kilometers north.  We made a few other stops in the park in areas that afforded us lovely views of lakes and mountains.  What an amazing place!

Back in Ushuaia, we finally welcomed the opportunity to do some shopping and enjoyed strolling around town before returning to the ship.

We were originally scheduled to set sail at 1:00, but this was postponed to 2:30 to allow the ship time to completely refuel.  As always, Capt Mercer came on just before sailing with an update.  We received some most unwelcome news:  In Capt. Mercer’s own words, there is a “monstrous” storm in the Pacific Ocean, and after contacting the home office in Seattle, they decided that it would be best to wait a day and change course in some way.  With reports of gale-force winds and 40-foot waves, we fully agreed that we wanted to miss it!  Even the crew was groaning at the thought of such wild seas; thus we will spend an extra day in Punta Arenas.  As a result, we know that we will miss a port in the South Pacific, though we don’t yet know which it will be.  (Our bet is that it will be Easter Island because that’s the iffiest port on our schedule after the Falklands, where we had the amazing fortune to be able to land, but of course this is just a guess.  I would be delighted to be proven wrong!) 

Veteran world travelers know that with an around-the-world cruise one can expect changes in itinerary and course.  Over the past few days, we’ve learned that we must go with the flow and anticipate that there will be delights as well as disappointments.  It’s all part of the adventure! 

As we sailed from Ushuaia we had the opportunity to hear a talk given by three of the scientists who had spent the Antarctic summer at Palmer Station.  It was fascinating to hear of their research during their time there; the camaraderie and mutual respect was very obvious.  As I listened, I couldn’t help but think in particular of a few of my colleagues who particularly enjoy aspects of science – Stephanie, Kim, Georgia and Megan.  The station studies many different fields of science, including geology, astronomy, and marine biology.  I could actually picture each of them jumping in and working hard with these scientists. 

BT

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