Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Lively Barcelona, Spain -- The Heart of Catalonia


Because we had visited Barcelona four years ago and had spent our entire time in this lively city, we decided we wanted to do one of our two days outside Barcelona.  Not having been very knowledgeable about Spanish history (let alone the Spanish language!), my first introduction to Barcelona came in 1992 when I watched the Summer Olympics in Barcelona.  The views of Barcelona that were shown at that time made me want to visit there sometime.  So after our brief visit at the end of our Mediterranean cruise in 2008, I was pleased that Barcelona was included as one of the major ports on our World Cruise.  In fact our tour guide told us that Barcelona is the fourth busiest cruise ship port in the world!  Sadly however, unemployment is 22% in Spain today, up from 8% only a few years ago, and it’s one of the countries in the Eurozone whose economy is on the brink.

Barcelona’s population ranks behind only Madrid as the second largest city in Spain and because it’s on the Mediterranean Sea and in the northeastern part of Spain, it draws cruisers that Madrid isn’t able to attract.  The city has experienced rule by a variety of rulers including the Carthaginians, the Romans, Visigoths, and the Moors before the Moors were driven out of Europe.  Barcelona is the capital of the region of Catalonia and even today many residents consider themselves Catalonians before saying they are Spanish.  Most people here can speak the Catalan language as well as Spanish. The Pyrenees Mountains are visible and separate Spain from France.  The tiny country of Andorra is nestled high in the mountains and our tour guide told us that because it is separate from both Spain and France but is overwhelmed by the sizes of those two countries, that there is an agreement that Andorra will be under Spanish jurisdiction for four years, followed by French jurisdiction for four years and then back to Spanish, a fact I had never known.  But then I don’t consider myself an authority on Andorran history!   Needless to say it causes confusion since the official language shifts back and forth between Spanish and French every four years.  Fortunately both Spain and France now use the Euro so at least the currency remains the same.

Shortly after we docked about 11:30 AM, we boarded our shore excursion called Montserrat Monastery to climb high into the Montserrat Mountain Ridge.  “Serrat” comes from jagged or serrated and the name fits because the mountains in this area are quite serrated.  The Montserrat Mountain Range is the site of a monastery where people come to worship La Moreneta, the Black Madonna, who is patron-virgin of Catalonia.  A Benedictine community includes about 80 monks who still live there.  Roman Catholics come to Montserrat Monastery to pay homage to the Black Madonna and others come to see the monastery and basilica because of its unique location on a natural platform 2380 feet above sea level.

Just before we got off the motorway outside Barcelona, we stopped for a photo of the monastery from ground level, far below the monastery.  The guide noted that she only stops if the weather is good and the view is clear.  On this sunny day (at the time), we had a great view of the monastery.  We turned off the main road and began climbing higher and higher for a second day of hairpin turns and switchbacks which kept hearts in the mouths of those who don’t like heights (like me!).  We had had hairpin turns the previous day in the Prunelli, near Ajaccio, Corsica, and even on narrower roads there, but somehow the sheer drop and the expansive view of the landscape made the drive to Montserrat seem more nerve-wracking.  This was especially true when the driver had to stop the bus on the road with the 40 passengers and then when it lurched back each time when he resumed the drive. I maintained confidence – sort of – that the brakes wouldn’t fail at the wrong time and, since this is being written, I am pleased to report that they didn’t fail us.  I overheard one person say this was worse than the Going to the Sun Highway in Glacier Park in Montana, a drive that kept me on pins and needles back in the mid-1980s when I attempted it.

Safely to the top, we found the monastery area jammed with cars, tour buses, and people on a Sunday afternoon.  Our tour guide, Michelle, led us along a viewing platform that we had seen far below. Now we could look down to where we had been and far out to the landscape that included the Pyrenees Mountains (and maybe somewhere in there, tiny Andorra) and out to the Mediterranean Sea.  While we walked we heard a loud motor and realized that it was a helicopter coming in for a landing just ahead of where were walking.  Barb and I could swear there was a person hanging outside the helicopter on the other side from where we were, before they climbed in.  If that was really the case they were hanging outside the copter with nothing but air between them and the ground below.  The helicopter landed and took off again.  It repeated this process two more times while we prepared to enter the basilica.  Our guide assured us that whoever had been rescued was “fine” and was being taken to the hospital.  Several of us commented to each other that if someone is “fine”, they don’t usually head for the hospital!

We entered the basilica along with hundreds of others and looked around at the icons and religious symbols.  We could view the Black Madonna from the sanctuary of the basilica but for a closer look, we would have to stand in a line, about an hour and a half long, to see the shrine.  We didn’t have that kind of time, so had to be content with the distant view.  In fact, Barb and I didn’t know exactly where we were supposed to look, so we asked the Catholic priest from the ship who had come to Montserrat where we were supposed to look and he directed our attention.

As we returned to the bus for the drive down the mountain, the sky had turned black and we could see lightning in the distance.  A few claps of thunder were heard, including one loud enough to make the bus vibrate.  Fortunately we took a gentler path down and as we got lower, the rain subsided and when we returned to the ship, there was no rain.  It was another great excursion and we were happy that the return to the ship was uneventful.

            On our second day we stayed entirely within Barcelona in order to take a tour that focused on the architecture of the great Spanish artist and architect, Antonio Gaudi.  Our friend and Lincoln-Way East Art teacher, Dale Sandoval had told us before we made our 2008 visit to Barcelona to be sure not to miss Parc Güell (Güell Park) because it was built using the imaginative architecture of Gaudi. Our cruise that year had concluded in Barcelona but we had opted to stay an extra day there and had visited the fascinating Güell Park at that time. The taxi had taken us to the bottom of the hilly park and we had climbed up.  Barb was starting to get bronchitis and was just a few weeks away from her knee replacement. Those factors combined with approximately 100° heat made it difficult for her to appreciate it.  Fortunately those factors weren’t present this year, so we took the shore excursion, Gaudi’s Barcelona.  As we drove along the streets of Barcelona, we marveled at the ingenuity of Gaudi.  He was a late 19th and early 20th century avant guarde architect whose presence was evident throughout this city.  Although there are few parks, Barcelona boasts over 150,000 trees.  They line most of the busy streets and enhance the interesting architecture.  We made a short photo stop to look at a building at Casa Milà, another of Gaudi’s efforts.  Our guide pointed out the interesting street lamps, also influenced by Gaudi.

           One of the two major highlights of the tour was the stop at Güell Park.  Barb vowed she was not going to hike up park as we had done in 2008, but this time our guide took us to one of the main entrances where we could walk down to the lowest portion of the park.  Needless to say this made it much easier.  Gaudi, from whom derived the word “gaudy”, had developed the park as supposedly a residential area, but it never was accepted in that way, so the financier, Güell, who gave his name to the location, agreed to make it a park that would feature the vision of Gaudi.  It’s rather difficult to explain the park to those who haven’t seen it.  One has to see it or see a number of pictures to comprehend the park.  There are ornate concrete columns that supposedly represent trees. There are cubicles near the top to accommodate the birds and their nests and they are used for that function!  There are long, wavy benches with decorative tiles somewhat similar to what we had seen nearly three months ago on the Tile Staircase in Rio de Janeiro except that in Barcelona the tiles were original whereas in Rio, they were tiles that had been sent from places throughout the world.  This park was a fun place to visit and I could enjoy going back there a third time if I come back to Barcelona.  Any first time visitor should make Güell Park a priority.

            Our guide, as well as the ship’s staff, warned us of pickpockets in Barcelona.  The guide, Maria, said that Barcelona is generally a safe city except for the pickpockets.  We were urged to keep close watch on valuables so we kept virtually everything zipped in our clothing and kept firm control of our cameras. As our guide was explaining the unique benches, we noticed three young men, probably about 20 years old, intently watching us and appearing to be interested in what our guide was saying.  We were pretty sure they were pickpockets checking out their possible victims within our tour.  Later, when we had some free time, I was up a slight hill while Barb was down below.  She motioned to me that she wanted to take a picture, and then called up for me to watch out.  Later she said there were probably some pickpockets behind me but they moved on when they saw her talking to me.

            Our final stop was at the Gaudi masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia (Holy  Family) Cathedral.  It had been started during Gaudi’s lifetime and is still unfinished.  The façade we viewed in 2008 now has the scaffolding away and they are working on other areas.  Revenue comes from the many tourists who pay to enter the cathedral to take pictures without restrictions.  The plan is to complete the work by 2027.  The sculpturing depicts much of the life of Jesus. In fact we entered through the Nativity Façade and exited through the Passion Façade and noted the relevant architecture both entering and exiting.  When we left, we saw cranes moving back and forth working on the upper reaches of the exterior and even saw several men strapped to lifelines as they worked on the façade.

           The interior was much brighter and airier than I had expected.  I anticipated a dark sanctuary as are many old cathedrals but Gaudi wanted light to dominate so many of the windows are not dark stained glass but are either clear or lighter stained glass.  Our guide pointed out some new stained glass that hadn’t been there two weeks ago.  The four main pillars are named for the four apostles and have plaques representing them high and close to the ceiling.  There are 56 pillars – one for each week of the year and four for the four apostles.  The church is not yet used for daily and weekly mass but rather for special occasions.  On November 10, 2010, Pope Benedict XVI came to Barcelona to dedicate the cathedral and hold a mass there.  It is large enough to accommodate 8,000 at one time for worship.

            After concluding our visit to La Sagrada Familia, we returned to the ship, passing the famous shopping and night life street, Las Ramblas.  We had had time to stroll Las Ramblas in 2008 but not this time.  Passing the famous Christopher Columbus landmark statue, we returned to the ship, proudly pleased that we still had possession of everything we had taken with us – no pickpockets for us.  We hope that will be the same when we visit Cadiz, our second to the last port and, from what we hear from others, another very interesting city and one, apparently, that is more representative of a typical Spanish city.

            Once again, visiting a country that uses the Spanish language, reminds us of all the high school Spanish classes we have subbed in, mostly at Lincoln-Way, but for me a number of years ago in Hamburg as well.  Barcelona is a great, vibrant city to visit and I highly recommend it to anyone who has never had a chance to come here.

CT

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